thoughts and suggestions on getting your DSD into a chassis last revised 12/31/93 tools you may find helpful -------------------------- vacuum desoldering tool hand reamer nibbler and 3/8" drill bit OR cold chisel and/or square punch parts/supplies -------------- nice big metal chassis (trust me, you'll be glad you have extra room) #4 machine screws x 1/4" or 3/8" for opto parts #4 washers for opto parts #6 machine screws / nuts / spacers for standoffs for PCB and RCA panel 4 position rotary switch for SEL3-SEL0 6 SPST switches for power, BYP, IDS, C bits mounting hardware for switches -- control nuts and nice knob LED mounts for T 1 3/4 extra green LED for power Radio Shack 276-022 is 2 pack (replace current green LED too, for aesthetics) strain relief for line cord rubber feet for chassis 2 conductor / 4 conductor ribbon wire (22 ga ideal) heat shrink tubing heatsink for power transistor (TO-220 case) and related parts machine screw / nut, heatsink compound tip: mount on outside of chassis (back panel) using mica washer and insulated standoff finishing --------- white contact paper rub on lettering clear contact paper hobby knife these four things can produce a really nice finished product. the contact paper can be bought at any houseware place, it's often sold to cover shelves in kitchens. prepare the chassis with all holes / openings required. cover the front and back panel with the white contact paper. use the rub on lettering to label the front and back panel. after making sure everything is cool visually, seal it all in by covering the front and back panels with clear contact paper. now proceed with installing all the controls and wiring in the chassis --- by carefully using the hobby knife to cut holes in the contact paper, you can easily hide mistakes in hole size / placement on the actual metal chassis.